Applying Color Theory to Match Skin Tones
Hard to find the right shade.
Matching your foundation to your client's skin tone can be very difficult. More often than not you are going to have a difficult time using the products directly from the store. It can be very hard finding the perfect shade and finish of foundation for your skin directly off the store shelf.
Whether it's too light, too dark, too yellow or too pink professional makeup artists have a hard time finding a color that is ideal for their client's skin tone. In most cases you will need to custom mix your colors to perfectly match your client's skin tone.
The benefits of blending two colors of foundation are:
The right color
The right shade
The right finish
The Right Color
To get the right color you will need to make the foundation shade cooler or warmer.
Your client's skin will generally be one of three colors:
Warm - you will need to make it cooler
Cool - you will need to make it warmer
Neutral - you will not need to adjust the color
Sometimes a foundation may look a little too pink or too yellow. In these cases you will need to use your color wheel and add more of the opposite color to create a neutral color. (See color wheel). For too pink you will add yellow, for too yellow you will add..... pink.
The Right Shade
To get the right shade you will need to make the foundation lighter or darker.
This may be especially necessary at times when your client's spray tan, or in the summer months when they are outdoors more. At those times you want to have a couple of foundations on hand to mix and match to get the right shade.
First step you will need to select the foundation from your kit that is the closest match to your client's skin.
If the skin tone is too light for the foundation you have selected, you will need to make the foundation lighter by adding an even lighter foundation.
If the skin tone is too dark for the foundation you have selected, you will need to make the foundation darker by adding an even darker foundation.
The Right Finish
To get the right finish you will need to make the foundation more matte or dewy
Definition: Matte makeup is a foundation with no shine or shimmer added to it. It gives the skin a smooth, flawless finish without the appearance of oil.
Use a non-iridescent foundation to get a matte finish.
Apply with a flat brush to the center of the face, then blend outwards with a sponge.
Leave the foundation to dry, then apply another layer to areas that need it.
Sometimes the foundation can be too matte or too flat looking for the look you are trying to create.Liquids tend to give a dewier finish. Mix luminizer with your foundation and top it with a little bit of the luminizer on the cheeks over the blush.
Matte and Dewey Looks